Old School Italian

One would normally figure that in Brooklyn, the quest for authentic old-school Italian American food would be fairly easy.  Perhaps this was true at one time (and even still in Bayridge), but in the trendier, hip neighborhoods (like in Cobble Hill) they’re becoming harder to find.

One of the remaining gems of yore is Sam’s Restaurant & Pizzeria.  Located on Court Street in Cobble Hill, Sam’s has been a neighborhood staple for nearly 80 years.  Still family owned, they cook up such favorites as spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parmigiana, veal, eggplant, sirloin steak, and pretty much anything else you might expect from a restaurant that cooks food that will probably remind you of “how grandma used to make it.”

The menus are covered in plastic.  Updates are made by adding a little white out and entering the new price in ink.  The drink list features a few beers and wines and a cocktail list out of a 1920’s gangster movie – the sidecar, sloe gin fizz, and pink lady are among the many choices.

Do yourself a favor and start with the cold antipasto salad – a luscious mix of iceberg lettuce, sliced tomato, green and black olives, salami, hard-boiled egg, provolone, roasted peppers, and deliciously oily anchovies.  Pull of a hunk of their freshly baked (or reheated – either way it’s good) bread and dunk it in a bit of olive oil, salt, and pepper. 

For your meal you can stick to a standard dish if you like.  They’re all fantastic.  I have yet to try their pizza, but I hear it’s divine.  I like the Scallopina a la Sam’s.  It’s one pounded chicken breast, and one boneless veal chop, each topped with a slice of eggplant, prosciutto, mozzarella cheese, a white wine and butter sauce, and a dollop of tomato sauce served with two fried potato croquettes.  This should be enough food for two days, but I always manage to finish it in one sitting.

The waiters are family – they’ve been there for years.  They yell at you and are sarcastic at times, but I kind of like that.  This place is no nonsense Italian American cuisine, and the staff fits right in.  It also helps that it looks like it hasn’t been redecorated since the 1950’s. 

Sam’s isn’t the only choice in the neighborhood for authentic old school Italian American, but it is certainly my favorite…plus, it’s called Sam’s.

~Sam

Sam’s Restaurant & Pizzeria
238 Court Street
Brooklyn, NY 11201
(718) 243-2208

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